Super Chunky Cowl Neck Jumper

© Hooker Chick

This has to be THE easiest jumper to make!

I am sooooooo pleased with it, and from first stitch to completion with no frogging – amazing! My freestyle makes never normally go as smoothly.

It's super comfy to wear too as the front and back is made in one piece, so no bulky seams across the top of the shoulders.

As usual, I have made this to fit me – 36” bust – with the finished measurements being 40” around the body, body length 22”, sleeve length 18.5” . But it should be pretty easy to size up – just add stitches in even numbers, so an addition 4 sts per row would add just under 2 inches around the body, and 6 sts would increase by just over 2 inches. Add stitches evenly as when you come to count for the neck hole, no matter how many stitches you add, you still want the neck hole to be 28 stitches. So if you added 4 sts, you would count 13sts/28sts/13sts at the neck, adding six stitches make the count 14sts/28sts/14sts, and so on. If you are adding stitches to the width to accomodate a larger bust size, you should add to the overall length too, by adding rows evenly to the front and back, e.g. adding 2 rows to the front and 2 rows to the back will increase the overall length by 1 inch. I hope this makes sense.

Okay ... you will need:

• 8 x 100g/3.5oz skeins of Berroco Borealis Tweed (I used colour 5094) or 800m/864yds of another, super chunky yarn of your choice.  Borealis is a 52% acrylic/33% wool/15% rayon mix, which gives the jumper a lovely soft feel, so look for a similar mix.  If sizing up, remember to buy additional yarn. 
• 7mm and 8mm hooks
• Darning needle to sew in ends
• Contrasting thread to use as stitch markers

The entire jumper (including neck) is worked in rows back and forth, hooking through the 'v' at the top of each htr of the previous row.

Begin each row with ch 2 – this counts as the first stitch.

Back/front, sleeves and neck are all made using 8mm hook. Use the 7mm for the slip stitch seam – it makes it a little less bulky.

Abbreviations ~ ch (chain), htr (UK half treble).

Tension ~ 10 sts/8 rows = 4 inch square


BACK ~ make a foundation row in htr - 50 sts in total (ch 2 + 49 htr) - see photos 1- 12 of the instructional picture below ...

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Next row as photos 13 - 16.  Repeat for a further 42 rows (or to desired length if sizing up) - 44 rows in all including the foundation row.

NECK HOLE ~ ch 2, htr 10, ch 28, htr 11 (if sizing up, add htrs evenly either side of ch 28).

FRONT ~ ch 2, htr 10, htr x 28 into each top loop of the chain, htr 11. Continue each row in htr for a further 43 rows (or for same number of rows as the back), 44 rows in all.

SLEEVES ~ count and mark 28 rows from bottom of front and back, and with right side facing out, join yarn at row 29. If you have added rows to the length of the back/front, remember to count these too, so if you have added 2 rows, count 30 rows from bottom, joining yarn at row 31.

Rows 1 – 4, ch 2, htr 31
Row 5, ch 2, htr 30
Rows 6 – 9, ch 2, htr 29
Row 10, ch 2, htr 28
Rows 11 – 14, ch 2, htr 27
Row 15, ch 2, htr 26
Rows 16 – 19, ch 2, htr 25
Row 20, ch 2, htr 24
Rows 21 – 24, ch 2, htr 23
Row 25, ch 2, htr 22
Rows 26 – 36, ch 2, htr 21

36 rows in all ~ don't cut your yarn just yet! With right sides facing together, change to 7mm hook and slip-stitch seam along arm and down first side. This means no ends to sew in at the wrist.

Repeat on other side for sleeve number two.

NECK ~ with right side facing out, join yarn at one side of neck, then (ch 2, htr 57) x 20 rows. When you come to the end of each row, join with slip stitch through the second chain of first stitch of previous row.  Start each row with ch 2 and turn, but miss the first 'v' and make your 1st htr into the 2nd 'v'.  If you make the 1st htr in the 1st 'v', you will end up increasing by 1 stitch per row.

Just a few pesky ends to sew in, and you're done!  Happy hooking :-)

© Hooker Chick

Bold Stripe Jumper

© Hooker Chick

Another Hooker Chick original!  And it's an easy one, so even a novice (like me) could make this.

I have designed the jumper to fit me ~ I'm a UK size 10.  It's a good fit, not tight, not loose.  Therefore the pattern that follows is for size 10 only.  The back and front pieces each measure 18" wide (54 sts).  Body length is 23".  Sleeve length (from wrist to armpit) is 14.5".

If you are larger than size 10, you could still have a go at making it if you are prepared to do a little math. 

There are 3 sts per inch, so for finished garment to measure 38" around, make front and back pieces 19" wide  (57 sts).  However, I can't figure out how best to adjust the front and back decrease, and sleeve increase/decrease so that the number of rows in the front, back and sleeve decreases a) match up and b) end with the correct number of sts for the neck.  Unless I made a jumper in each size, I couldn't be sure that I'm giving you the right pattern!  Maybe I'll get my head around it one day.  Hmm.

So ... to make the jumper to fit size 10, you will need:

Yarn ~ I used Drops Nepal, which is an aran weight, wool/alpaca mix, but there is no reason why you can't use any other aran weight yarn - just make sure that you buy the correct number of balls to make up the total lengths for each colour :

Colour 1 ~ 656 yds / 600 m (Drops Nepal, dark grey (0506), 8 balls)
Colour 2 ~ 328 yds / 300 m (Drops Nepal, grey (0501), 4 balls)
Colour 3 ~ 164 yds / 150 m (Drops Nepal, orange (2920), 2 balls)

© Hooker Chick

Hook ~ 5.5 mm

Darning needle, scissors.

Abbreviations :

st ~ stitch
sts ~ stitches
ch ~ chain stitch
dc ~ UK double crochet
tr ~ UK treble stitch
yo ~ yarn over

Tension ~ 12 sts x 11-ish rows = 4" square


BACK

To make the back, crochet 54 sts as foundation row in colour 1.  I used the method in the following video - it's not my video and it uses the US term 'double crochet' for what is the UK treble stitch.  So in UK terms, it's foundation treble (not foundation double crochet) ...
 

Apart from the foundation row, the stitch combination throughout the entire pattern is alternate tr and dc.  If (like me) you are merrily hooking along and vague off a bit and then have to stop to check that you're keeping to the stitch pattern, it's easy to see where each stitch needs to go ...

© Hooker Chick

Next 12 rows ~ ch 3, dc into first space.  Continue to alternate tr and dc into each space to end of row (you should still have 54 sts including your starting 3 ch, which counts as a tr).

Join colour 2.  Continue as before for 8 rows.

Join colour 3.  Continue as before for 4 rows.

Join colour 1.  Continue as before for 2 rows.

Join colour 3.  Continue as before for 4 rows.

Join colour 2.  Continue as before for 8 rows. *

BACK DECREASE

Decrease 1 st per row over 24 rows as follows:

Join colour 1. 

Row 1 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space.  Cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (53 sts ending on a dc).
Row 2 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space.  Cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (52 sts ending on a tr).
Row 3 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space.  Cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (51 sts ending on a tr).
Row 4 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space.  Cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (50 sts ending on a dc).

Repeat these 4 decrease rows 5 more times (30 sts remain).  To finish, cut yarn, yo, pull tail through st on hook, pull tight.

FRONT

Make as back to *

FRONT DECREASE

Using back decrease rows, work rows 1 - 4 three times, then 1 & 2 only (i.e. decrease 1 st per row over 14 rows, 40 sts remain).

SHAPE LEFT SIDE OF NECK

** ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc for further 9 sts (11 sts in all). 
Turn, ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc for further 8 sts (10 sts in all). 
Turn, ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr for further 7 sts (9 sts in all). 
Turn, ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr for further 6 sts (8 sts in all).*** 

Repeat from ** to *** (4sts remain).

Last two rows ~ turn, ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, tr into third (last) space(3 sts in all).  Turn, ch 2, miss first space, dc into second (last) space (2 sts remain).  Cut yarn, yo, pull tail through st on hook, pull tight.

SHAPE RIGHT SIDE OF NECK

With right side facing, join yarn 11 spaces from left edge. 
^^ ch 3, dc into next space, cont. alternate tr and dc for further 9 sts (11 sts in all). 
Turn, ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc for further 8 sts (10 sts in all). 
Turn, ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr for further 7 sts (9 sts in all). 
Turn, ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr for further 6 sts (8 sts in all).^^^

Repeat from ^^ to ^^^ (4sts remain).

Last two rows ~ turn, ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, tr into third (last) space(3 sts in all).  Turn, ch 2, miss first space, dc into second (last) space (2 sts remain).  Cut yarn, yo, pull tail through st on hook, pull tight.

© Hooker Chick

SLEEVES (make 2!)

Crochet 26 sts as foundation row in colour 1. 

Increase 11 sts over next 38 rows as follows:

Rows 1 - 3 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (26 sts).
Row 4 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus tr into last space to make 27 sts in all (so last space has 1 dc and 1 tr).
Row 5 ~ ch 2, tr into first space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row, ending on a dc (27 sts).
Row 6 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, ending on a tr (27 sts).
Row 7 ~ as row 5.
Row 8 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus dc into last space to make 28 sts in all (so last space has 1 tr and 1 dc).
Rows 9 - 11 ~ as rows 1 - 3.
Row 12 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus tr into last space to make 29 sts in all (so last space has 1 dc and 1 tr).
Row 13 ~ join colour 2.  ch 2, tr into first space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row, ending on a dc (29 sts).
Row 14 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, ending on a tr (29 sts).
Row 15 ~ as row 13.
Row 16 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus dc into last space to make 30 sts in all (so last space has 1 tr and 1 dc).
Rows 17 - 19 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (30 sts).
Row 20 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus tr into last space to make 31 sts in all (so last space has 1 dc and 1 tr).
Row 21 ~ join colour 3.  ch 2, tr into first space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row, ending on a dc (31 sts).
Row 22 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, ending on a tr (31 sts).
Row 23 ~ as row 21.
Row 24 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus dc into last space to make 32 sts in all (so last space has 1 tr and 1 dc).
Row 25 ~ join colour 1.  ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (32 sts).
Row 26 ~ as row 25.
Row 27 ~ join colour 3.  As row 25.
Row 28 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus tr into last space to make 33 sts in all (so last space has 1 dc and 1 tr).
Row 29 ~ ch 2, tr into first space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row, ending on a dc (33 sts).
Row 30 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, ending on a tr (33 sts).
Row 31 ~ join colour 2.  As row 29.
Row 32 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus dc into last space to make 34 sts in all (so last space has 1 tr and 1 dc).
Row 33 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (34 sts).
Row 34 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus tr into last space to make 35 sts in all (so last space has 1 dc and 1 tr).
Row 35 ~ ch 2, tr into first space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row, ending on a dc (35 sts).
Row 36 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus dc into last space to make 36 sts in all (so last space has 1 tr and 1 dc).
Row 37 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (36 sts).
Row 38 ~ ch 3, dc into first space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row, plus tr into last space to make 37 sts in all (so last space has 1 dc and 1 tr).

Join colour 1. 

Decrease 34 sts over next 24 rows as follows:

Row 39 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc to end of row (36 sts ending on a dc).
Row 40 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (35 sts ending on a dc).
Row 41 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (34 sts ending on a tr).
Row 42 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc to last two spaces, work last 2 sts together (32 sts). 

How to work 2 sts together ~ hook into space, yo, hook back through space (2 loops on hook), hook into next space, yo, hook back through space (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through first 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through remaining 2 loops on hook (leaving 1 loop on hook).

Row 43 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (31 sts ending on a dc).
Row 44 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (29 sts).
Row 45 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (28 sts ending on a tr).
Row 46 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (26 sts).
Row 47 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (25 sts ending on a dc).
Row 48 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (23 sts).
Row 49 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (22 sts ending on a tr).
Row 50 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (20 sts).
Row 51 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (19 sts ending on a dc).
Row 52 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (17 sts).
Row 53 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (16 sts ending on a tr).
Row 54 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (14 sts).
Row 55 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (13 sts ending on a dc).
Row 56 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (11 sts).
Row 57 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (10 sts ending on a tr).
Row 58 ~ ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc into second space, cont. alternate tr and dc to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (8 sts).
Row 59 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (7 sts ending on a dc).
Row 60 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to last two spaces, work last 2 sts tog (5 sts).
Row 61 ~ ch 2, miss first space, tr into second space, cont. alternate dc and tr to end of row (4 sts ending on a tr)
Row 62 ~ ch 3, miss first space, dc, tr (3 sts remain).  Cut yarn, yo, pull tail through st on hook, pull tight.

© Hooker Chick

JOIN PIECES TOGETHER

With right sides facing out, join sleeves to back and front using slip stitch join in colour 1.

With wrong sides facing out, join back to front and seam sleeves using slip stitch join in colour 1.

Here's a video that shows the slip stitch join.  Because you are joining side seams, and so when you place your two pieces together and line up the edges, the stitches will look uneven, just do your best to match up the stitches and create an even slip stitch seam.  Hook through one loop on each stitch that you pick up rather than two as in the video - as you are working all the seams in colour 1, this will give you an invisible seam on your side and sleeve seams.

Here's what my seams look like ...

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© Hooker Chick

© Hooker Chick

© Hooker Chick

NECK

With right side facing, starting at right side of back, join colour 1, ch 3 in a tr space, and alternating dc and tr, crochet 30 sts along back neckline, 3 sts at top of left arm, 44 sts along front neckline, and 3 sts at top of right arm (80 sts in all).

Next row ~ turn, ch 3, work next 2 tog., work next 2 tog., cont alternating dc and tr for 9 sts, work 2 tog., work 2 tog., cont. alternating dc and tr for 17 sts, work 2 tog., work 2 tog., cont. alternating dc and tr for 9 sts, work 2 tog., work 2 tog., work 2 tog., cont. alternating dc and tr for 23 sts, work last 2 sts tog.

Finishing row ~ turn, ch 2, miss first space, dc into each space until end of row, join with slip stitch at top of beginning ch 2, cut yarn, yo, pull tail through st on hook, pull tight.

© Hooker Chick

Use darning needle to sew/weave in all those pesky ends, and you're done!

© Hooker Chick

If you decide to make this, please let me know how you get on.  As my first jumper pattern I hope it's easy enough to follow, but if you get stuck, give me a shout and I'll try and work it through with you!